Silly hats filled in for costumes this year

Despite a last minute costume failure, we participated enthusiastically in the Halloween party at the Lodge. Instead of elaborate get-ups, we opted for silly hats at the bar. Lynette and Steve Kreuger wore jester hats and masks, and Ken and I recyled our Cirque du Soleil toppers.

Paula Bates, owner of the establishment, showed off her lovely figure and newly-minted Hawaiian tan as Sandy from the musical "Grease."

Halloween surprise

I knew the kids would probably be seeing each other this weekend, but I had NO IDEA they would be dressing up for Halloween. Perhaps a case of fiddling while Rome burns, what with Hurricane Sandy bearing down on the east coast, but it always makes me happy to know they are having fun together.

The oaks let go

The oaks were the last to let go of their leaves this year. It happened almost suddenly. One day the large, bronze leaves stood in contrast to evergreens and the skeletal remains of other deciduous trees; the next day, they were flying off the trees like migrating birds.

It was an unseasonably warm day, too: 70 degrees and breezy. I opened the windows, and the steady south wind kept those oak leaves pressed up against the screen all day until I closed the window and they unceremoniously dropped off.

Kayak pulley system - Up north style

Ken's system, modeled after Grandpa's canoe pulley system at the River House, adapted for the up north garage space and boats. The Beemer will slide right into the garage underneath the three kayaks.

White flag

Lately I've taken to walking on Doriva Beach Road all the way up to Twin Lakes Road and back. It's a nice one hour walk. I'm very careful about traffic (of which there is almost none this time of year). I give oncoming cars eye contact and a smile, step off onto the shoulder, and wave them thanks when they give me a wide berth. When I hear one approaching me from behind, I shoot a glance over my shoulder to let them know I hear them and make sure they are in their proper lane.

I told you that story so I could tell you this one. Today I saw a whitetail deer on the shoulder (not the one pictured above, but you get the idea) a few dozen yards ahead. It had already spotted me, and I could tell by the fact it was moving its white "flag" it was considering a run for cover. But it waited, watching me, standing very still. I stopped, too.

Suddenly it occurred to me that if I wasn't careful, I might startle the deer into running at a bad time. If it ran into the road just as a car approached from behind me, I would be witnessing an accident.

So I turned my head briefly to look back over my shoulder. No car, so I could safely continue to observe the deer. However, when I turned my head back, she was gone.

Here's what I think happened: because my hair is white, I think the deer might have read the back of my head as a "flag" when I turned to look over my shoulder, causing her to skeedaddle into the underbrush.

Yes, I just compared my hair to a deer's ass.

Sweeeep!

I must say, I am happy to take credit for the idea to go to the Breakers to watch game four of the Tigers/Yankees American League Championship series. We had good seats at the bar, and we were surrounded by TV screens, all tuned to the Tigers. Derek, the owner of the Breakers, was tending bar and delivering food. Nice guy. I really like what they've done to the place (added a second story open air bar and several ground-level outdoor areas). The food was good, too.

TIGERS SWEPT THE YANKEES! It was fun being out and about when that happened. High fives all around.

We resolved to get to the Breakers more often next summer. It's a bit further to drive, but it's a good local establishment that needs our support! Of course, it's not like they don't already know Ken. In fact, they know his tastes so well they saved him an Oberon t-shirt when he missed the rep's visit.

Spoiled by bartenders in three counties. At least three.

Speaking of serendipity...

We got back to Black Lake from Glen Arbor at about 4 p.m. today. It didn't take long to unload the car, and before you know it Ken was back out in the garage, enjoying the facilities. After a while, he came into the house with an Oberon in his hand and declared it happy hour. We took a nice walk down the lane with beer and wine in hand, then jumped in the car and headed for the Duck.

That's where the serendipity comes in.

Because the Bluffs is now closed, Tom Turi's billiards league has been forced to move to the Duck, so he was there along with Donna and Mark. I went up to give him a hug and he said, "Tell your husband that tomorrow's the day if he wants some help pulling that dock."

A boon to our boy Kenny, who was looking down the barrel of pulling the dock himself (with a little help from me) again this year.

And to top off our good luck, Angie was working.

The main event

I took a nice brisk walk today, wearing five layers (undershirt, long sleeved t-shirt, windbreaker, knit jacket, raincoat) to protect me against constant winds and intermittent sprinkles in Glen Arbor. This little berg is set up - by design or serendipity - to unfold one view at a time and make you feel like you are the first to discover each new shop, restaurant, or garden. I loved that everything in town felt and looked low-key and quirky.

But the main event - what brings us all to this place and so many others like it - is water: in this case, Lake Michigan on one end of town and Glen Lake on the other. One Great Lake, one inland lake; one alive with foamy whitecaps, one peppered with fall colors.

In a way, it's a similar spot to our own water wonderland. One Great Lake to inspire us; one inland lake to delight us.

Knot Just a Bar

With dinner still three hours away and everyone feeling a bit peckish, we stopped in Omena at the little fishing dock bar that Ken and I visited so many years ago (how many? about 24). It is no longer a falling down dive bar, but a nicely appointed restaurant adjacent to a Leelanau Cellars' wine tasting room. Our waiter, Gary, was initially a bit rushed, but warmed up once he realized what a fun-loving group we were.

It was Jane's brilliant idea to order Bloody Marys. It just didn't feel like a wine kind of day (at least not yet). The Bloody Mary was a good one, and came with a "snit" - a little beer chaser on the side. It was an unexpected and delicious combination.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch....hey....where's the ranch? (updated entry, with mystery solved)

We drove through Northport so I could get some photos and try and spot the old Woodruff Ranch. Some things looked familiar; many things did not. Ultimately, even after three passes by the area just south of town, we were unsuccessful in spotting the cottage. It must have been absorbed by some kind of development; I noticed a marina, some fancy cottages, and a number of orchards that seemed new in the mile or two south of town.

Addendum: Patty Geisler told Grandpa in an email about some recent contact with the current owner of the Woodruff Ranch:

On Thu, Oct 11, 2012 at 7:13 AM, Patricia Geisler <pattygeisler@gmail.com> wrote:

Three or four years ago while we were up at the family "rally" at Leelanau State Park, Richard called Mrs. Taylor.  He, Ryan, Laurel and I visited the Ranch.

Richard and Ryan took notes and measurements to forward their plan of "rebuilding it board for board" in Gore Bay.  Laurel and I got the grand tour of the inside and chatted up the owners.  The house itself has been little changed except that the back room is now all fixed up in to a big dining room--the old dining room has furniture that takes advantage of that view out the bay window (a literal bay window, isn't it?)  And the kitchen has been vastly improved.  The whole place is "decorated".

Mr. Taylor is a retired air traffic controller.  Mrs.--I forget whet she did, but she does believe in ghosts--always an off-putter.  However, she warmed to Laurel and me as soon as it was revealed we both read the New York Times editorial page.

Geoff found it on google maps, tho it was rather difficult. The driveway layout is more extensive, and there is a garden in the circle they created. I'm not surprised if Karen couldn't locate it from the road; the driveway entrance is shrouded in foliage, and you can't see the house.

Audrey Shane and husband own a lot off the water and up the hill between Northport and Omena, where I think they may have started building.

As working class kids, we count ourselves very lucky to have had access to a place like The Ranch! Certainly it left a lasting impression.

Tip of the peninsula

Today's activity was a car trip through the Leelanau peninsula. The colors were probably past peak, but there were still many beautiful tree-lined lanes and panoramic views to be seen.

Ron had a state park pass on his license tab, so we drove up to the very point of the Leelanau peninsula to see the lighthouse. The building on the left, below, is the foghorn building.

The rest of the story

The remainder of the day was more focused on food. Gail suggested we drive to Empire after leaving the park, and as a result, we were able to visit a well-known chocolaterie, "Good Daughter Chocolate." From there, we visited a roadside apple stand, sampled their "Empire" apples, and purchased a peck or so.

The next order of business was a late lunch at a local place in Glen Arbor recommended highly by Gail's friend Fran, who lives in the area. The place was run by "Bad Sue," who told us the story of her name. When she opened the restaurant, she had a partner, also named Sue. Apparently this particular Sue was one of those sunny-dispositioned individuals known for their cheery outlooks and perky attitudes. The other Sue was plain spoken - no time for the warm fuzzy niceties. People calling the restaurant took to asking for either "good Sue" or "bad Sue." Good Sue is no more; bad Sue runs the shop now. We thought she was great.

(That's bad Sue back by the cash register.)

Outside and behind the Riverfront Deli was a lovely little river. There were kayak rentals on either side of the deli for floats down the Crystal River.

Back at the resort, sitting on a porch swing in one of many little hidden spots.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

That little piece of dune you can see in the photo to the left, just past the veranda of the adjoining building, is part of the Sleeping Bear dunes. The three of us girls decided to take a drive over to the dunes to drive - not walk - up to the scenic overlooks.

I suited up in layers for the trip: tank top, long-sleeved t-shirt, windbreaker, scarf, coat, and for good measure, I took along my fleece lap robe. Pretty much ready for any conditions.

The national lakeshore was a reasonably short drive from LeBear. We stopped at the gate to pay for admission. Gail searched in vain for her national park pass, so at the park ranger's suggestion, Jane purchased a new one. "Leave them in your glove box, next time!" he advised.

On the way up the dune, we passed through this little covered bridge over a leafy gully. Jane read in the tour brochure that bridges were covered for maintenance reasons: weather and outdoor conditions deteriorated wooden bridges, and it was easier to replace the bridge's roof than repair the bridge itself; hence, covered bridges.

 Jane consultes the tour brochure at the Glen Lake overlook.

Notice the multiple colors in the lake. This photo doesn't do the colors justice.

Jane and Gail Sterling at the Glen Lake overlook. The fall colors made the view extra-beautiful.

Notice in the lower left-hand corner of this photo how the sand seems out of focus? That's because the wind was tearing across the dune as we walked the short distance from the car to the Lake Michigan overlook. Fortunately, I was wearing my Yasser Arafat-esque keffiyeh scarf (from Banana Republic!) and could wind it around my head and over my face. Even so, we had about three pounds of sand in our shoes, hair, teeth, and ears when we got home.

This is the Lake Michigan overlook. Again, the picture doesn't do justice to the view, or to the velocity of the wind. As you can see below, the lake was absolutely gorgeous - every color of blue and green imaginable.

I took this picture from the Lake Michigan overlook (you can see its shadow on the lower-right side of the photo). If you look closely, you'll see some idiot in red on top of the dune "flying" like Kate Winslet  on the bow of the Titanic.

This is the view in the other direction.

This was our last stop on the tour: the North Bar Lake overlook.